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> Mossman's MA70, lol, another one.
Moss
Posted: Mar 7 2010, 04:06 AM
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戦争へ行きましょ!!
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QUOTE (Geo @ Today, 11:04 PM)
Stop beer bottle tricking. You're going to regret it the day your hand won't close up properly XD

screw you ;D

this time it was while lifting a gearbox, damn audi 'boxes have sharp corners :angry:
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Moss
Posted: Nov 6 2010, 02:29 PM
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SUDDEN UPDATE



YOUTUBE ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rMJUJF4mMA )



yay
i did as much as i could, but i fail at the internet so i gave up trying to do the wiring and gave it to a shop to do as well as a few other little things, damn it's hard when you don't have any diagrams for anything to follow.

This post has been edited by Moss on Nov 6 2010, 02:30 PM
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Geo
Posted: Nov 6 2010, 06:25 PM
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all bow before me
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Sounds healthy as bru. Lol beached az.
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StraightAwayZ
Posted: Nov 7 2010, 01:26 AM
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So how many pounds of boost is that thing running :P
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Moss
Posted: Nov 7 2010, 02:30 AM
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戦争へ行きましょ!!
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ENOUGH TO SUCK MY WALLET INTO THE COMPRESSOR!!!

(IMG:http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/1900/30082010h.jpg)

;D
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Moss
Posted: Dec 15 2010, 04:57 AM
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so atm, the car runs all is well to some extent.

the trans could do with new oil.

i got some electric fans off an old audi A6 free from work and they fit perfectly on the a70 radiator, unfortunately they only flow enough air to handle the heat made under light throttle and idle :(
anything more and the gauge starts to climb.

i'm thinking 4 options to fix this
1. new hood with big vents
2. go back to fan clutch/shroud
3. bigger elect fans
4. more coolers/radiators

anyone have any other ideas?
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Dec 15 2010, 10:51 AM
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Replace current setup with big huge aluminum radiator with a decent electric fan and shroud. The bigger that fits, the better. Use a temp controlled switch that automatically switches the fan on about 80C and off at 65-70C.

Flush cooling system and burp it.

Reduce the amount of antifreeze in your system and use a higher content of water. Or use a product like water wetter to improve heat transfer efficiency of the coolant. Don't use pure water (distilled or tap water) always keep SOME antifreeze in the system.

Replace current setup with big huge aluminum radiator with a decent electric fan and shroud. The bigger that fits, the better. Use a temp controlled switch that automatically switches the fan on about 80C and off at 65-70C. I put this last because its the most expensive, but that doesn't mean its less important/shouldn't be considered.

Check your water pump.
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DOHC
Posted: Dec 15 2010, 08:19 PM
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You should have kept it stock so these problems wouldn't crop up like a horrible cold.
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Moss
Posted: Dec 16 2010, 03:19 AM
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i think i might try mounting up a second radiator under the boot just for the hell of it.

sometime this weekend i'll grab my tape measure and see how much space i potentially have to work with
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Dec 16 2010, 10:14 AM
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No! just... get one good radiator, lol

Or inspect your system. If its not added performance bolt ons (like a water cooled turbo) over taxing the system, its something else. Adding a second radiator is a bandaid, and a crappy one. As one person put it to me once, its like putting a bandaid on a pinhole while internally the person is dying from an arterial hemorrhage.

It could be that there's too much air in your cooling system, or the radiator pressure cap could be failing.

One other thing for you to consider is a blown headgasket. When they blow between a cylinder and a coolant line, they force hot gasses into the coolant which makes it difficult for the system to maintain a constant temp.
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Moss
Posted: Dec 16 2010, 01:04 PM
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lols.
i'm positive there's nothing broken/leaking/blocked.

but not sure about the amount of air in there thou, i'm try that instead of starting a journey of madness this weekend, thanks ;D
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Dec 16 2010, 02:20 PM
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QUOTE (Moss @ 1 hour, 15 minutes ago)
lols.
i'm positive there's nothing broken/leaking/blocked.

but not sure about the amount of air in there thou, i'm try that instead of starting a journey of madness this weekend, thanks ;D

Believe me, I was "positive" nothing was leaking or broken in my setup. The engine mysteriously devouring coolant and slight wisps of white vapor out the tailpipe (in 35C weather, no less) told me otherwise. Turned out there was a high spot on my engine block which likely caused a slight leak, and multi layer steel headgaskets are very intolerant of any imperfections in the mating surfaces. On the converse side composite headgaskets usually found in OEMs tend to degrade over time leading to similar problems.

Trust me... if an engine can't maintain the nominal temps it was meant to from the factory at idle or low revs, SOMETHING is wrong.
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Moss
Posted: Dec 16 2010, 11:06 PM
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QUOTE (Oddmanout84 @ Today, 9:20 AM)
Believe me, I was "positive" nothing was leaking or broken in my setup. The engine mysteriously devouring coolant and slight wisps of white vapor out the tailpipe (in 35C weather, no less) told me otherwise. Turned out there was a high spot on my engine block which likely caused a slight leak, and multi layer steel headgaskets are very intolerant of any imperfections in the mating surfaces. On the converse side composite headgaskets usually found in OEMs tend to degrade over time leading to similar problems.

Trust me... if an engine can't maintain the nominal temps it was meant to from the factory at idle or low revs, SOMETHING is wrong.

i bled it just now and drove it around for a while, the rate it heats up at when under hard throttle has decreased, it also cools down faster down from 5min-3 from red line to mid point of temp gauge.

it's not over heating under idle or light throttle, just when i start thrashing it abit does it get all hot and bothered on me, there's no smoke either (that i can see).

while bleeding it however, i noticed very small/fine amounts of oil surfacing, when the old engine's headgasket went i had heater on full blast, so i'm going to check every so often to see if it's just residue oil from the heater core that will slowly disappear or if it doesn't, start checking for headgasket symptoms or other leaks


[ Post merged on Dec 16 2010, 11:08 PM ]
i'll probably give it a good flush some time in jan.


[ Post merged on Dec 17 2010, 06:37 AM ]
hooray, just got back from a "spirited" drive and the temp didn't go anywhere near overheat, although it's 1am atm :P , bleeding it definitely has helped alot.

the temp even went low enough for the fans to turn off ;D

tomorrow i'll see if it can stay cool going for a drive at lunch time, probs won't but meh
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Moss
Posted: Dec 28 2010, 09:00 PM
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okay, i've been thinking.

problem:
overheats after 30 min of use

possible causes:

1. radiator too small, (a80 supra has a large radiator)

2. electric fans are shit

i've been looking over the whole engine and nothing seems wrong or out of place regarding fluids.

possible solution:
i mentioned the oil bubbles i noticed when bleeding it, i've decided they are coming from the built in oil cooler in the bottom of the radiator and that the trans is being gay.
so for now i'm getting some big external cooler and i'll go from there.


also about the transmission, when pulling away from a stop, it shakes slightly (shakes harder (read; very hard) if i accelerate harder), all other aspects are fine.

i drained what i could from the pan and filled it with new fluid, old fluid was still red and didn't have any junk in it , i tightened some leaking connections as well, unfortunately it's only softened the shakes abit. any tips about a possible solution are welcome, i'm going to ask an auto expert sometime after new years if nothing changes.
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Moss
Posted: Jan 22 2011, 05:23 AM
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well...
i found the problem, damn i feel retarded for not noticing this earlier.

the fans were wired backwards.
:(



god damn.
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Blue-Sensei
Posted: Jan 22 2011, 03:07 PM
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but its still true lol, electric fans on our mk3s aren't as great as you would hope..., im running with the stock fan...the stock shroud broke, and I ran out of money....SO!, it's got no shroud lol. (the Death Fan).

btw, cuz im new to this forum:

for future ref: Wiring up 2JZ into MA70

2JZ-GE->T Swap notes (+price)

2JZ-GTE swap info

SupraMania - One of the many supra forums, but its filled with resources and info?

The other main supra forum for inforamtion, resources.

This post has been edited by Blue-Sensei on Jan 22 2011, 03:16 PM
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Moss
Posted: Jan 22 2011, 04:59 PM
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戦争へ行きましょ!!
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other progress i've made is installing the seatbelt bars
(IMG:http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4494/15012011.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6559/15012011006.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/1862/15012011003.th.jpg)


waayyy ahead of you blue, the swap is already complete ;D

This post has been edited by Moss on Jan 22 2011, 05:00 PM
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Blue-Sensei
Posted: Jan 22 2011, 05:23 PM
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twas for future ref lol
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Moss
Posted: Jan 23 2011, 03:31 AM
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did a heap of driving today, temp gauge didn't move.

so protip for mk3 supras, audi 80 electric fans are sweet as, unless your radiator is 3cm closer to the engine than stock :P
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Moss
Posted: Oct 22 2013, 12:00 AM
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So I've hobbled this together somehow

http://s21.postimg.org/tv2ek3i7b/IMAG1110.jpg

I'm yet to put it on and see if it'll even idle let along run anywhere near properly.

Slapped a onepiece driveshaft in a couple months ago, drives like a beaut!
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N643
Posted: Oct 22 2013, 04:41 AM
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only used by a chinese guy who has nothing to do while playing the game
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OMG YOUR BACK, I MISS U SINCE U LEFT MOSS
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Moss
Posted: Nov 6 2013, 06:16 PM
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http://s8.postimg.org/uuzf8dz8l/IMAG1165.jpg

Run like balls as expected, hunts for normality between 1.2k and 2.3k rpm constantly, opening throttle makes it want to die.
I've got a haltech e11v2 lined up to be installed next week. I am the greatest at sciencing.


[ Post merged on Nov 6 2013, 06:17 PM ]
Wooo, not quite a return, I just don't like leaving things not updated. Also my computer is broken and phones r lame, so that's not helping :P
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