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> Can't decide on what to do with my Z...
PanzerAce
Posted: Oct 24 2010, 08:36 PM
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So I've got a job, payed off my debts, and am ready to start dumping money into my car again, but....I have no idea what I want to do right now. I have...3-4 options:

1) keep the current engine (L30 with triple mikunis) but switch it over to a ITB EFI and dizzyless system.
2) Ditch the current engine, get a turbocharged M104 engine (2.8, 3, or 3.2L) dropped in setup for ~400whp
3) Same as 2, but instead of going with a turbo setup, build a 3.6 or 3.7L high compression NA setup for the same WHP goal.
4) Don't change anything engine related, put all the money towards body/suspension work.



#4, and either 2 or 3 are going to happen eventually, so I guess I'm just looking for people's opinions on build order and on NA vs. turbo...
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VR4FTW
Posted: Oct 24 2010, 09:34 PM
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in the long run, N/A would be a lot more cheaper to run. But its up to you
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PanzerAce
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 12:24 AM
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maybe normally, but my goal is north of 100whp/L. Long run a turbo setup would actually probably be cheaper, since I wouldn't have to:
1) find a diesel crank (and then try to get rid of a good 30-50% of the weight...)
2) get the engine sleeved
3) get custom pistons
4) experiment with cam grinds
5) mongo head work


The only extra long range cost of the turbo setup is replacement of the turbo itself every so often, but I'm going to be going water cooled housing + oil cooler + some form of turbo timer, so I won't be going through them too fast.


As clarification: money isn't the issue for this swap in general, it's more just "what do I do first?", since I'll be doing this in stages of shop time and drive time.
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Geo
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 12:27 AM
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I think you should just start with the body and suspension and from there one you can continue trial and erroring new things with your engine and if you do decide to go for a turbo, you don't have to worry too much about your shit falling apart.
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 09:50 AM
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QUOTE (VR4FTW @ Yesterday, 9:34 PM)
in the long run, N/A would be a lot more cheaper to run. But its up to you

To achieve the same power goals as a forced induction system, it is many MANY times more expensive to go N/A.
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The J
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 09:54 AM
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Start with body and suspension- A car can feel great even if its engine is weak and its got shit tyres, but it's got a good chassis.
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Lorenzo*
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 10:12 AM
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engine last. body wheels suspension 1st. prepare your car for the engine your putting in

This post has been edited by Lorenzo* on Oct 25 2010, 10:13 AM
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MaikazeFD3S
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 05:18 PM
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I have a friend that built a monster, 1JZ powered S13 Coupe. The thing hauled ass and the swap was beautiful. There was one slight issue, all of that power with stock suspension, differential and wheels was useless...even in a straight line because of traction issues and the car was VEERY unstable at high speeds.

I have another friend, a member here (Toxic240) who was building a 1JZ powered S13 Hatch, but he took the route to do a decent set of Coilovers, bushings, 5-lug swap, diff, pad/rotors ect. ect.. The difference is, that even with a stupid slow (And hurt) daul cam KA24 with no mods (130hp), was so much more fun and purposeful then the monsterous 1JZ Coupe. It could hanlde, very stable at upper speeds and was a good performer in every department besides the fact that it was a 18 second car.

In short: Build the car to handle the power your going to throw at it BEFORE you give it the power. You cant go wrong!
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VR4FTW
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 06:32 PM
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QUOTE (Oddmanout84 @ 8 hours, 42 minutes ago)
To achieve the same power goals as a forced induction system, it is many MANY times more expensive to go N/A.

in the build yes..

in maintenance..no

but to gain power, its better to go forced induction..but if you can't maintain it, its better off you spend money one time big time rather than rebuilding in case that turbo goes awry

This post has been edited by VR4FTW on Oct 25 2010, 06:34 PM
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Oct 25 2010, 08:08 PM
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QUOTE (VR4FTW @ 1 hour, 35 minutes ago)
in the build yes..

in maintenance..no

but to gain power, its better to go forced induction..but if you can't maintain it, its better off you spend money one time big time rather than rebuilding in case that turbo goes awry

I've found turbos are very easy and cheap to maintain if you know what you're doing...
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SouthSideSlider
Posted: Oct 26 2010, 08:53 AM
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option 2 no doubt 3.2 turbo S30 FTW
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PanzerAce
Posted: Oct 27 2010, 09:18 AM
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TBH I'm leaning more towards using the 3L M104. The heads have more potential in them. If I did a franken motor I'd go with a 2.8 bottom end bored out with a 3L head on top.
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RemieGino14
Posted: Oct 27 2010, 11:38 AM
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I would say...go Hella Flushed for the fun of it. Thats my project I'm trying to work on for my Z. I'm just gonna rebuild the L28, buy everything I need, and flush the hell out of it. Probably get some Wantanabes and ride low, but not tooo low. Just throwing out my opinion...

- RemieGino14 -
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PanzerAce
Posted: Oct 27 2010, 09:55 PM
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flushed? apparently not even urban dictionary can save me now.
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PanzerAce
Posted: Nov 3 2010, 09:42 PM
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Aaaaaaaand now I don't have the money since I just picked up a stupid rare SSG 82 rifle biggrin.gif


And I've got to get a eco or duratec into my other Z first so that I can still get to work....
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