Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register ) Resend Validation Email


  Reply to this topicStart new topicStart Poll

Thread Rating: 0 votes, 0.00 average.  Rate:  
  • Thread Rating: 0 votes, 0.00 average.  Rate:  
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
> datsun 240z tips
Lorenzo*
Posted: Mar 29 2011, 07:25 PM
Quote Post


Request Title - PM Mods
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 353
Member No.: 5,205
Joined: May 12th 2009
Location: Quebec





guys im looking to buy a 240z and ive found some but im not really sure what i am looking for. is there a specific year i should get? ive heard that 70 and 71 have lighter bodies than 72 73?? im looking for tips on what i should look for. thx smile.gif
PMEmail PosterUsers WebsiteMSN
Top
Blitz
Posted: Mar 29 2011, 09:16 PM
Quote Post


Wangan Legend
********

Group: Members
Posts: 132
Member No.: 6,581
Joined: Mar 8th 2010
Location: In an engine bay, CA





Yes they are lighter, aka less safety equipment, rust should be a main concern, doors, hatch area, battery area are some common spots. (from first hand experience) MAKE SURE THE ELECTRICAL IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY. headlights, turn signals, dash lighting, etc. There is a bucketload more but I'm tired...
PMEmail Poster
Top
Lorenzo*
Posted: Mar 30 2011, 11:25 AM
Quote Post


Request Title - PM Mods
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 353
Member No.: 5,205
Joined: May 12th 2009
Location: Quebec





thank you biggrin.gif
PMEmail PosterUsers WebsiteMSN
Top
Nomake Wan
Posted: Mar 30 2011, 10:06 PM
Quote Post


梓県警察峠部
**********

Group: Core Members
Posts: 1,094
Member No.: 223
Joined: Jun 11th 2007
Location: Orange, CA





1971 isn't necessarily lighter--the first few 1971s are. The one that's the lightest is the Series I, which you can spot via external features pretty easily. If the rear hatch has vents below the window and the rear quarter trim says "240Z" instead of just "Z" it's a Series I. They're also the most expensive to buy as I recall.

Pull up the carpets and look for rust. Look in the wheel wells for rust. Look under the battery for rust. Pop the rear hatch, check the seams for rust. Get under the car, check the frame rails for rust and straightness. Check ALL electrical functions. On the test drive, does the back of the car make a loud BANG when you shift gears? That's a simple fix, it's a busted diff mount. Is it doing anything out of the ordinary when you drive it like pulling one way or another, or does it not accelerate smoothly? Remember that 240s are all carbeurated unless this one is modified.

Plenty of people have asked the same question before you on the 'net. A little one-on-one time with Google wouldn't hurt.
PMEmail Poster
Top
Oddmanout84
Posted: Mar 30 2011, 10:26 PM
Quote Post


Resident Alcoholic
**********

Group: Advanced Members
Posts: 1,033
Member No.: 3,693
Joined: Sep 25th 2008
Location: My garage, waiting for overnight part from JP





Who cares if the 69-70 models have the lighter chassis, its only by a few pounds. The later models have extra chassis stiffening, which is a small compromise in weight when you consider how the chassis will handle extra power... unless you plan on staying totally stock. Later models are cheaper and easier to obtain, too.

This isn't directed at you, Nomake. I'm just giving my point of view. But regardless, follow his advice for the rust hunt. Unless you have the proper tools, its a pain in the ass to fix. Even then, its a pain in the ass.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Mar 30 2011, 10:28 PM
PMEmail Poster
Top
Nomake Wan
Posted: Mar 31 2011, 06:12 AM
Quote Post


梓県警察峠部
**********

Group: Core Members
Posts: 1,094
Member No.: 223
Joined: Jun 11th 2007
Location: Orange, CA





QUOTE (Oddmanout84 @ 7 hours, 46 minutes ago)
This isn't directed at you, Nomake. I'm just giving my point of view.

You kidding? Why do you think I have a late-model '71? laugh.gif
PMEmail Poster
Top

Topic Options  Reply to this topicStart new topicStart Poll