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> Introduction to my new baby: 280ZX
downhill280zx
Posted: May 30 2011, 07:06 PM
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I just picked up my baby... Obviously in hopes of turning it in to a replica of the Devil Z, but more so in hopes of exceeding this: http://kyushakai.wordpress.com/2009/12/17/mid-night-club/

Lofty goal, but it's well on its way. Here's the few pictures I have right now, more to come!

Engine: L28 - soon to be bored over, oversized pistons, etc.
Transmission: Stock 5-speed, currently looking in to an adapter plate for the 6-speed from the 350Z.
Interior: Needs a lot of work. New seats, carpet and headliner on order, along with a dash cap.
Miles: 19,000 original miles. Owner bought it as a secondary project car, brand new, and never drove it past those few miles. Guy had an amazing garage, consisting of a late 60's Plymouth Roadrunner and a first-year Mustang GT.
Mechanical condition: Minor leak, overheats, need brakes bled and possibly new discs on all four corners.

Contingency: If this engine fails, I'm throwing an Rb25T in it and calling it a day.


Pics:


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Some observations I've had so far: The 280ZX is a bit more of a grand-touring vehicle than an all out sports car, even though I have the Coupe-Z. This means I need to replace the suspension. The Z Store is having 15% off until Monday on all orders over 125$, so I went ahead and ordered some things...


New pictures, unrelated to the below list! Here she is sitting as she is now, at the dealership. I'm really not liking that super-restricted airbox, looking at fabbing up a dual intake for her.

Original Z wheels on all four corners!

Also, the stock airbox looks incredibly incredibly restrictive, so I'm working on drawing out a way to fit two standard air cones on to it. But tomorrow is judgement day! They'll let me know if it's worth keeping the stock motor in it (Which I am so so so hoping for), or if it's shot from sitting for so long and running so infrequently.

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Tokico HP Strut & Spring Set, 79-83 Coupe - new
11401506 - Tokico HP Strut & Spring Set, 79-83 Coupe - new

Brake Rotor - Front, 79-83 - new
12400205 - Brake Rotor - Front, 79-83 - new

Brake Rotor - Rear, 79-81 - new
12400207 - Brake Rotor - Rear, 79-81 - new

Disc Brake Pads - Front, 79-81 - new
12400303 - Disc Brake Pads - Front, 79-81 - new

Disc Brake Pads - Rear, 79-81 - new
12400304 - Disc Brake Pads - Rear, 79-81 - new

Headlight Covers Set, 79-83, Smoked - new
25400604 - Headlight Covers Set, 79-83, Smoked - new

Clutch Kit, 75-83 Coupe - new
14400102 - Clutch Kit, 75-83 Coupe - new

Next on my laundry list of non-essentials is braided steel lines, HID's, and a few other things, maybe some LED tails. But more importantly, I'm having a rough time finding a set of seats that I like. I'm a bigger guy (not fat, just muscled) and the little 22" wide models squeeze me a bit. Anyone have recommendations on that front?
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phearless
Posted: May 31 2011, 04:00 AM
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That's one of the cleanest S130's I've seen, in a long time. Score!
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Oddmanout84
Posted: May 31 2011, 04:21 AM
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Well, its the wrong chassis to make a "Devil Z" replica, but who cares. Looks like you have a great platform to start building your own beastly beast. Plus, you'll have a better drag coefficient than an S30, better for top speed.

Oh, and when you start going with braided steel lines; research, research, RESEARCH. Doing it right with real AN stuff means replacing and getting adapters for just about EVERY stock fitting. Plan it out and budget for it in advance! I can't stress that enough. Those lines are amazingly expensive when it all adds up.
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S12 Drifter
Posted: May 31 2011, 10:42 AM
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QUOTE (Oddmanout84 @ Today, 8:21 AM)
Well, its the wrong chassis to make a "Devil Z" replica, but who cares. Looks like you have a great platform to start building your own beastly beast. Plus, you'll have a better drag coefficient than an S30, better for top speed.

Oh, and when you start going with braided steel lines; research, research, RESEARCH. Doing it right with real AN stuff means replacing and getting adapters for just about EVERY stock fitting. Plan it out and budget for it in advance! I can't stress that enough. Those lines are amazingly expensive when it all adds up.

the real devil Z WAS S130

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the BLACK BIRD LOL!

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downhill280zx
Posted: May 31 2011, 05:03 PM
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So I'm at a bit of a crossroads here. As I was driving the Z home for the first time, it overheated rather badly (gauge wasn't working, night time, didn't see the steam) and completely shut down on me. My mechanic doesn't know (yet. he will know tomorrow) if it scored the cylinder walls, warped the head, cracked the block or what. I'm the kind of guy who expects the worst case scenario, so here's my question: If the block is cracked, do I waste time trying to repair it\find a new block\rebuild the original L28? Or should I move on to an RB25 or an RB20?
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S12 Drifter
Posted: May 31 2011, 05:46 PM
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QUOTE (downhill280zx @ Today, 9:03 PM)
So I'm at a bit of a crossroads here. As I was driving the Z home for the first time, it overheated rather badly (gauge wasn't working, night time, didn't see the steam) and completely shut down on me. My mechanic doesn't know (yet. he will know tomorrow) if it scored the cylinder walls, warped the head, cracked the block or what. I'm the kind of guy who expects the worst case scenario, so here's my question: If the block is cracked, do I waste time trying to repair it\find a new block\rebuild the original L28? Or should I move on to an RB25 or an RB20?

most likely it if locked up the engine got so hot that the pistons seized to the walls temporarily (until cool)

remember metals expand with heat. when the manufactured the engine to run at a certain temp, when it's running at this temp (say 200 degrees) the piston is fully expanded and the rings are completely closed.

when you overheat OBVIOUSLY your throwing more heat, the pistons and rings expand more then they should and make it difficult for the crank to turn freely I'm SURE you felt SOME power loss when it was overheating or were you having the music blasting so you didnt hear a thing? as for the block warping it's slim, not saying it can't happen but cast iron is more throwing a rod out of the block then to wrapping/cracking then. aluminum will crack/warp more easily. also you most likely blew a head gasket. if you're going to swap go 1jz you can get way more bang for buck and their cheap. if i wanted to i can get a full 1j block for 500 bux.

This post has been edited by S12 Drifter on May 31 2011, 05:48 PM
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Oddmanout84
Posted: May 31 2011, 06:14 PM
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I overheated my 280z multiple times on the original engine, causing it to die on the highway usually until it cooled. That engine (when the radiator was fixed) carried me over 5000 miles across the states with no problems at all. I replaced the engine years later for an L28ET, because the valve seals and piston rings were letting too much oil in the combustion chambers. When I cracked that engine open there was no sign of damage, at all. L6's are tough.

But be thorough just in case.

By the way, WTF is this plan to add two intake filters onto this car? A single cone would suffice, two is just a waste of money. I don't even think the word 'redundant' is sufficient to describe the prospect of a dual intake on an L6.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on May 31 2011, 06:17 PM
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downhill280zx
Posted: May 31 2011, 06:35 PM
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That's a good thing to hear. Also, as soon as he pulls the head I'll make sure I find out if the block is scored, or anything. If there's no damage, awesome. If there is, I'm thinking I'll do a rebuild. Also, the dual intake thing was just me musing.
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Oddmanout84
Posted: May 31 2011, 06:44 PM
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Keep the dual intake idea for when you go twin turbo.
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downhill280zx
Posted: May 31 2011, 06:51 PM
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Will do. That's one thing I'm considering, and somewhat having an issue with... I don't know if I should go ahead and rebuild the engine, or spend the same money towards doing a turbo build. If the motor is damaged, it'll be about 2k to rebuild it to the specs I want, or maybe even closer to 3k. When I could go ahead and do an RB swap for about the same and make roughly 260hp.
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S12 Drifter
Posted: May 31 2011, 07:07 PM
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QUOTE (downhill280zx @ Today, 10:51 PM)
Will do. That's one thing I'm considering, and somewhat having an issue with... I don't know if I should go ahead and rebuild the engine, or spend the same money towards doing a turbo build. If the motor is damaged, it'll be about 2k to rebuild it to the specs I want, or maybe even closer to 3k. When I could go ahead and do an RB swap for about the same and make roughly 260hp.

260hp in a 2,200 pound car feels like your driving a 350hp car.
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downhill280zx
Posted: May 31 2011, 07:33 PM
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I wasn't saying it as a bad thing at all. tongue.gif I'm just not sure which route I should go for more power.
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downhill280zx
Posted: Jun 1 2011, 07:45 PM
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Well, good news! Block, head, pistons etc are all just fine. It didn't damage the internals at all. So it looks like I'm still on track for the 3.1 kit to be done later this year. For now though, I bought a full set of disc brakes, calipers, pads and hardware for all four corners, along with new radiator lines, a new radiator, and some other small stuff. All in all, it's looking pretty good.
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downhill280zx
Posted: Jun 9 2011, 09:55 AM
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Well, the engine is safe. Compression test was solid across all six, which is wonderful news. Slightly less wonderful news is that all four calipers have to be replaced. The discs are in shockingly good condition, however, with absolutely no warping.
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