Close Topic Options

Dongles are specifically for the hdd they are made for (IE the game checks for matching serial #s on dongle + hdds). If you try to use a dongle with a hdd without matching serial # it won't bootup. As an added bonus to namcos security you have to write hdd backup in a certain way to a hdd otherwise it won't bootup. I personally don't know how to do it but I know a guy in China who can backup hdds for MT3 / DX / DX+, but then again he also has the hacking software for it as well (make any car with any stats).

Would anybody know if you can change the language on the menu to English?

Playing the Japanese version...

And if so, where abouts is it found in the menu?

Thanks for assist guys.

This post has been edited by Westy on Apr 12 2016, 12:55 PM

Japanese version is stuck in Japanese (including the service menus) and theres no way to change it or at least I couldn't find a way while looking through it.

Well that sucks, I was hoping to change it over but oh well.
I do remember a screen that states the game is used exclusively in Japan.

One could hope anyway. Thanks for the help.


[ Post merged on Apr 13 2016, 11:37 AM ]
By the way, are you the fella (weirdo808hi) that sold a fella on Ebay 50 cards for the 3dx+ machine?

If so, I'm Ridgercr from Ebay that bought them.
(Your profile said you're from Hawaii)

Yup I am the same guy that was selling the blank cards for Max Tune 3/DX/DX+.

Only way to turn the game to English would be to grab a different version HDD + Dongles. I know a place that you can get Max Tune 3DX+ English HDD + Dongles for quite cheap compared to all the other arcade companies I've talked to. However if you change over then you can't use the cards you've made from the Japanese version on English, but could swap it out whenever you feel like it.

This post has been edited by weirdo808hi on Apr 17 2016, 08:11 PM

Its been a loooong time since I checked this thread! I see a lot more information has come to light!

I too have the "please reboot system" flash as the machine does not stay on long during use. I simply boot the game and do a quick reset at the power switch and once it boots up again the game runs fine.

As in my original post, I still have yet to find a work around or way to replace the fundamental N2 motherboard. My current system at the time of writing this has a refreshed AMD 2800 Mobile, brand new dual 1GB 3200 RAM sticks, additional cooling and a 2012 spec GFX card.

I saw someone post that the MSI MS-6777 may be a viable replacement so i might research this.

Concerning HDD cloning I tried everything I could to create an exact replica for a back up to work with the dongles. I even got the exact IDE HDD model the system comes standard with. I tried using Clonezilla on linux to create an exact copy however everything I treid unsuccessful

I think its extremely important for the survival of the game that a method be found to be able to backup another hard drive, as the original HDDs have had a VERY hard life. You can actually look up the stats of the HDD in the games sub menus to see how many times the game has been booted and also how many hours the HDD has been operating..

Hawaii, I am definitely interested in the English 3dx+ HDD with dongle. Pm me or just reply back, thanks for the assist. You da man!

PM received. Thanks for the info, I'll be getting back in touch with ArcadeSpareParts in the future. They seem fairly reasonable.

Hey guys - I picked up 2 WMMT3 cabinets. One of them has some issues (it boots and plays, but sound has an intense squeal and the screen is severely distorted).

I am interested in trying to swap out the old CRT display and potentially rewire the audio.

In comparing the two units, a few things stand out with the degraded one:

1 - The audio squeals very badly, and monitor speakers seem to not be working at all (only the seat speakers work)

2 - In troubleshooting the audio, it appears that there may be a problem with the power supply. Is it just a standard, slim PSU? I got a light shock multiple times on this unit, but not on the 100% unit. Obviously not scientific, but I also swapped the speakers from this one to the other and the squeal went away, which points to either wiring or interference from the power supply.

3 - The monitor is a 27" CRT that's connected via VGA to the video card. That should be pretty easy to replace... given I can find a replacement

Anyway, are there any suggestions on a replacement monitor or a way to fix the distortion? It's magnetic, like when you wave a speaker in front of a CRT, but degaussing doesn't help. Maybe related to the front speakers?

Hi there Heinekev,

Firstly, congrats on obtaining not one, but two of the machines. Are they for home use or going to an arcade?

I purchased a WMMT 3Dx+ machine last year from EBay and even though it's the Japanese version, it's not too hard to figure out. I just really want to read how the story mode plays out.

With your speaker problem, definitely check all the wiring first, then if that pans out, check the audio and bass I/O boards. You want to look for caps that might be bulging from overheat or anything that appears burnt too. These boards can be purchased either on EBay or at ArcadeSpareParts.com. They're not too much money, and also, if you can get the manual then this would be a big help too. I think you can download the MT3 manual online as a PDF format.

As far as the monitor goes, it could be a number of problems but you will have to check all your connections first, then look at the chassis board mounted below the CRT.

BIG CAUTION! Don't touch anything back there with the power on, and you want to discharge the monitor voltage before going back into the monitor board. Watch how to do this on YouTube if you've never done it.

I had problems with my monitor when the game arrived. I discovered 2 separate copper wire coils that popped off the chassis board. Soldered them back on, and the monitor fired up, besides degaussing, worked great.

If you have any further problems, just ask, a few of the folks here own these machines or have access to them besides playing in the arcade.

Thanks for the reply. They're for home use -- I got them for a steal ($1500 for the pair + shipping from Texas to Kentucky!). I've been addicted to the game forever, played it while I was in Seattle and now that I'm back in Kentucky I've come to find that there aren't any arcades with the game anymore. Fudge. eBay to the rescue, though!

The audio issue turned out to be related to the volume knob on the same panel as the test and select buttons. Just turned it up and the squeal went away. Wild! I didn't figure that out until after I traced all the cables from the seat on through the audio boards to the motherboard. No loose connections, but now I'm familiar with how they are wired.

Appreciate the heads up on the monitor. You probably just saved me a good bit of pain. I was going to start digging into that tomorrow, but after playing around with the units, I don't think the monitor is going to be that big of a problem. The green tint is not really visible while playing, only in menus.

That said, I did run into a new problem that I am stumped on. Each unit works fine in standalone mode (PCB1 / Machine count 1), but as soon as I link them (either through a switch or via a crossover cable), one of the units consistently freezes mid-race.

It's always the same physical unit -- whether or not it's PCB1 or PCB2, it'll boot up, complete the data merge, and get into a race before freezing. Once it freezes, though, it takes 5-6 reboot cycles to get it to come back to life.

I'm assuming that this is motherboard related and that I'm not going to find an easy remedy. Arcadespareparts.com has replacements, and I was going to order at least 1 for future replacement needs anyway. Might jump on that unless there's something obvious that I may be missing.

My suspicion is the network adapter may be toast (it's onboard), and I'm guessing it's not as simple as trying out a USB to Ethernet adapter

Thanks again for the reply!

This post has been edited by heinekev on Apr 28 2016, 07:10 PM

Oh very cool. Glad to hear the audio worked out then.

I too ordered my machine from Texas on EBay, and only paid $650 for this game. Although the game had some problems from the shipper, it still worked once I got the monitor fixed.

Your monitor issue (green tint in the menus) can possibly be solved by just going into the menu and adjusting the color setting.

As far as the link-up problem, I'll check my manual but you're probably on the right track to either the link cable or the adapter.

1 last note, if you want to adjust the seat speaker volume to match the main speakers, there is a screw that comes out located at the base of the seat mount. Pope that off and simply adjust with a screwdriver. The adjust should be on the right side too.

i wonder if someone here already swapped the crt monitor into LCD one since i saw one arcade (not sure) were using LCD monitor instead of the CRT

That is possible, just need to install the same size Lcd monitor. These crt monitors are about as good as a crt can get. Finding a replacement would be really tough, unless a flatscreen was put in place. It's only a vga connection that goes into the monitor, besides a couple connections for sound and steering.

so basically using the LCD is possible even if the resolution is in widescreen (around 16:9), right?

Current LCD/LED monitors will widen the video because mostly widescreen unless using an older LCD Monitor with squarish shape

I'm not sure if its the same in MT3 as what happens in 3DX and 3DX+ for the freezing during pvp battles. The cause of that most the time in 3DX and 3DX+ is a dead CMOS battery on one of the machines (the one that lags during pvp battles). Try and change the CMOS battery on the motherboard of the machine that freezes and see if that helps with pvp battles. In 3DX and 3DX+ there would be a yellow banner at the stop of the screen when the cmos is dead but MT3 didn't have that banner.


As for LCD, it would depend on the type of monitor or tv you get. My local arcade put in a 32in into the cabinet by removing some of the front speakers behind the front panel. The TV they bought was able to do 4:3 aspect ratio instead of it going to 16:9. So gameplay wasn't stretched out and it looked fine just more brighter than the crt and small pixalation if you really paid attention to it.

This post has been edited by weirdo808hi on Apr 29 2016, 01:39 PM

I remember that little pop up, yellow box on the intro screen. I saw a small disc-like battery on the motherboard and changed it out. Think it was a CR2032 size. Played the game for a few times and the pop up went away.

So yes, I surely hope this helps heinekevs problem.

Hello guys I am from GREECE !!! I have a problem on the first screen error 20 .... nobody knows what to do ????

E20 might be Steering Volume error..

Tighten nut on the steering assembly on the wheel area first, make sure the wheel does not wobble or shaking, and make sure the steering only turns at 90 degrees to the left and to the right

Worst case: replace steering assembly if E20 still persists

This post has been edited by vash944 on May 6 2016, 12:15 AM

If I remember correctly E20 is steering error. If you get that when starting up the machine then it is more than likely the STR board that is dying, that controls the force feedback. Try and go into the menu and disable force feedback (steering power) and see if the game will start up without E20.

Image size reduced, original size: 1134 x 1440. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

That too might really help...

@cissemania
Just make sure the steering only turns 90 degrees to the left and 90 degrees to the right... not 360 degrees... that means the bolt that holds the steering wheel is loose, that was the case for WMMT4/5 cabinets

Disable the force feedback for steering if you feel the steering jerks that turns too weird... a fully functional or crisp steering unit should jerk or twitch slightly and also it should go back to neutral steerimg area whenever you turn

If the steering mechanism/unit fails when you steer/play the car when you turn is too sluggish from before and a really good sign that you need to replace the whole mechanism part

This post has been edited by vash944 on May 6 2016, 08:53 PM

Thanks guys for the answers.

It get stuck at Error20.How can I get at the menu?

If you are quick enough during startup just before it tries to test the wheel you should be able to enter the service menus by pushing the TEST button (next to the service button) in the door where you put coins/card. Though if it auto-E20 as soon as it gets to the startup screen then it may be something is not connected correctly on the main computer board or a wire is loose. Make sure everything is plugged in correctly.

Hi guys, Been awhile since I last posted in this thread.

I sold my pair of 3DX+ machines a few months ago but recently picked up a US (Wood) project Max Tune 3 machine.

The N2 doesn't boot correctly, Seems to be a video card &/or HDD problem.
Since I don't have a working cab that I can test parts in maybe someone can help?

Here's a couple of screen shots of the boot up process, Glitched screen first then a glitched up NAMCO screen that runs thru the load process then back to the original glitched screen again.

Image size reduced, original size: unknown. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.

Image size reduced, original size: unknown. Click here to view the image in its original dimension.