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the other i saw a 240z.some minor surface rust on the dogleg an the lower front fender. License plate said 88 so this car hasant been use in a long time.original real spoiler, rims, and the motor had no rust but was dirty.I weent inside the dash was crack from the sun and the seats. I look in the center console a notice like 5 banana switches and only one was label and said choke.the steering wheel was replaced with a sport one.Any clue what are those switches?

Here's a 240 with an L28ET swap...looks clean and the price seems reasonable too.

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/8/1943168

Here's a cleaner looking car with a set of triple Webers, well worth a look.

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/8/1943032

A clean original that may be a steal, have to wait until it gets closer to the end of the bidding period.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks...em130233290288&

So, how much do you have to spend?

This post has been edited by gogriz91 on Jun 25 2008, 04:38 PM

depends what the insurance costs. What are you paying for insurance?

About $50 a month.

wait is that a lot or what?what type of coverage

This weekend I was a part of the First Annual Texas Z Party, I drove our club president's "School Bus Z", a School Bus Yellow Turbo Charged 280Z. It's running around 300hp, the boost was dialed down to about 10lbs, but I'll tell you what, that SOB is quick.








I had originally planned on building 2 motors, one a L28ET, and one a High compression 3.1L, with triple carbs.

After driving his "School Bus Z" for the weekend (and getting it airborn) I'm 100% committed to building a single L30ET motor.

I had way too much fun in his car.

like the color of the car really stands out as look at me

i thought you are suppose to use the F54 block instead of N42? wont it minimize deformation and keep more of the power as well extend the life of the engine?That in between each cylinder, in the water jackets, they cast an extra re-enforcing near the center of each bore or is it the other way around

Well, if you are leaving it as a stock 2.8L displacement engine, then sure, use a F54 block. On the other hand, if you have any interest in going for more displacement, you are going to want to go with an N42 block so that you have more material to work with, and can bore without pushing the limits to hard.

why have i heard the other way around about the n42.tha it can not be bored of the thin walls.i have some articles regarding this i just wante to know.so do i have to get the ld28 crank froma datsun maxima diesel if i want to get it cheaper then the 1000+ in the dealerships?

I don't know who would have told you to use the F54 block, but I don't know of a single high horsepower car on HZ that uses the F54. Cheapest way on the LD28 crank is a junkyard, but of course, you are going to have to make sure it is good to go still.

turbo! haha

If you're not sure you can afford the insurance you can't afford the car.

Got any updates?

Since i still can not find job i spend my time researching through variety of cars.I am in many different forums asking questions about a specific car so i can have a better understanding how different they are.American,German,japan,Italy,British car manufacturers i really don't care for the country but rather the car itself.I really like the 240z and the Z31

The Z31 is actually the Z that I would LEAST like to have, (well, the Z33 and S130 are up there as well). Underpowered compared to the Z32, and honestly, not that good looking as well. I would say if you can, based on the mechanical skills you've said you had in other threads, get a rolling S30 shell. Not only will it be cheaper, but it will also give you the satisfaction of building it yourself.

Heck, you could even go straight for a RB or SBC at that point.

Nobody likes the z31 lol thats why i want it because it is so different from the other Z's. Main goal was to have a high top speed car learning that the z31 has a very low cofficient and the VG is capable of high hp and torque.The z31 i think the cheapest Z to go 190mph+

Nobody likes the z31 lol thats why i want it because it is so different from the other Z's. Main goal was to have a high top speed car learning that the z31 has a very low cofficient and the VG is capable of high hp and torque.The z31 i think the cheapest Z to go 190mph+

[youtube]youtube-Ar4WzQ7KHak[/youtube]

Reviving this thread, because I'm actually building a serious 240Z.

As far as the OP's subject... I'm biased towards turbo. Right now, however, I'm running a dual Hitachi carb setup, on a ZX engine (F54 turbo block/N47 non-turbo head). I have plans for this project that include twin-turbo, FMIC, Extrudabody ITB's, and a Haltech system. Also, going to pick up a bunch Kameari's internals. This stuff is expensive, but way worth the money. The engine is probably going to be a touch overbuilt... but it's better to go balls-to-the-wall, than it is to risk screwing something up by using cheap crap.
There's really nothing wrong with either setup. The only issues I have with my Hitachi carbs are the fact that I hover between 12 and 15 mpg, and they're kinda tricky to adjust.

As for DOHC's comment about the Z31... I used to have an '84 Turbo. Loved it. That car was what broke me away from rotaries.

This post has been edited by phearless on May 29 2011, 04:02 PM

phearless, I'd look into Rebello Racing as well if you're looking to get the engine built. Kameari is awesome, but remember you're paying the JDM tax, and can probably put that extra money towards stuff that's as good/slightly better from here in the US.

And why do you want to go TT? looks? function?

Post reeks of exorbitant amounts of money better spent elsewhere for same performance values for less cost. Plus, they're all pretty much bolt ons. You want to worry about cheap crap breaking under strain, focus on durable internals. Kameari is nice, but as Panzer said you can find nice rods, pistons and all the rotating assembly hardware outside of that tuning shop for a GREATLY reduced cost and similar performance. The money saved can be put to better use elsewhere.

I'm also curious every time someone expresses the desire to go twin turbo on a Nissan L6, especially if it's LHD.

Good questions, all of them.
As for "why twin-turbo?".... well.... quick spool, high boost. Very useful on road course racing (keep it on the track, boys and girls). This car is not, nor ever will be, a daily driver. It'd be nice if it was still somewhat streetable, when I'm done with it, but I know that's just a pipedream. And, I grew out of street racing, long ago.
I'll look into Rebello, for sure. I've been searching for a good source, and even though I'm settled on Kameari, that can always change, if someone else impresses me, more.
Believe you me... I'd much rather just make my own stuff, but I'm not a machinist, nor do I have the equipment to even attempt to become one.
I'm way stuck on Extrudabody, though. Best ITB's on the market, by far. I encourage everyone to check out the stuff that guy has to offer.

Its worth noting that if youre going to be spending that kind of money a properly sized double or triple ball bearing turbo will perform 99% as well as a twin turbo set up, probably be cheaper, and will be vastly more simple (and again by relation- much cheaper) to install (as mentioned- specially on a lhd car where sadly our steering columns are severly in the way).

But of course no one can deny the "bling" or "sexy" factor of "twin turbo". Given the choice id go twin turbo on my Z any day of the week, simply for the "sexy" factor. The ricer in me cant resist.

And as mentioned- Its well worth considering others for internals- A lot of money can be saved and you will match the performance of kemari. The only thing they offer is the stroker kit which if i remember correctly is better than the ld28 due to the chosen stroke ratio- but cant recall off my head.

I'd also reconsider the itb/turbo set up. Again like the twin turbos, thats almost entirely purely "bling" factor. The actual performance difference on for turbo car when comparing itbs to a properly design plenum is very, very minimal. Theres some extremely good aftermarket plenums designed for the L series motor- Id strongly recommend looking at them first. Youll save yourself a fortune (which again, can be very well spent elsewhere- like the head, a better turbo, beefing up the drivetrain for the gobs of power you stand to make, etc) on hardware and tuning. Itb/turbo set ups are easily one of the -most- difficult set ups to tune- Unless youre good buddies with a tuner you will be spending a LOT of extra money for all the extra mapping time it will take to properly tune that set up.

Just my 02 cents- Dont want to rain on any dreams/parades- But if youre serious about this build you need to consider a few facts and be willing to accept a few things. You need to A, have a asinine amount of money, And B, be after nothing but the BEST of the best because someone who smartly spends half your budget for this build will get 95% of your performance.

Why ITBs though, especially for a turbo car. That's the question. In a lot of cases they make for more restriction in the intake, and a better effect can be achieved by a custom manifold with ONE throttle. Not to mention for a whole lot less money.

You can do what you want with the car, I'm just kinda playing devil's advocate.

Seeing as how this is my first foray into the oldschool Z-cars (like I said, before... I came from the rotary world), and the fact that I'm chasing after beating Speed Shop Shinohara's Fairlady Z at it's own game. Yeah. I have a lot of info to absorb.
I came here, because it seemed like there were a lot of guys with specific S30-related knowledge. Looks to me, so far, like I figured right.

Twin-turbo has it's detractors. I'm seeing a little of that. But, in my opinion, it's not just a "sexy factor". There are real performance advantages to a TT setup. The smaller primary turbo spools quickly, then makes it easier for the slightly larger secondary to reach full boost. This is important, coming out of corners, on the track.
Large single turbos are a 1/4-mile thing.
As for the ITB's.... Extrudabody has been making them for L28 engines, for years, with decent success on both turbo and NA engines.

Good advice, all of it. I'm absorbing knowledge, like a sponge, here.

Also... I perved your build thread, oddmanout.... very nice work, indeed.

The SSS S30 is an impressive feat, no doubt. But there's always something to be said about a controllable car with a balanced power to weight ratio. That's what usually causes me to raise an eyebrow when anyone talks/asks about how to build an 800hp L6 for a street car, with the specs pulled from a cartoon. That's not necessarily you I'm referring to, but it happens a lot it seems. At least you already seem to have an understanding that this is not going to be easy or inexpensive at all, and you're not just trying to replicate the setup AND performance specs of and exaggerated and mostly fictional blue car.

Believe me, I've thought about twin turbos, a lot. I'd still consider it down the road, but only after I tackle my first exhaust manifold. Since the OEM cast "log" is good enough well beyond my power goals (and beyond most L6 tuner power goals for that matter) it might be a while. At least until after I fine tune just about everything else. The main issue with a TT setup on an LHD S30 is of course space, as you've probably heard quite a bit. Having to fit all that extra STUFF while worrying about the BMC, booster and steering linkage is a problem the Japanese don't have. There's also another EFI ITB setup that's somewhat based on the mikuni/solex/weber manifold, and some of the more impressive builds I've seen are running it (one is in the Nissan Sport mag from a few months ago). Not sure if the guys running it are really experiencing major power gains from that piece itself, or more out of convenience of not fabbing a custom setup. If I remember correctly, it already has two sets of injector bungs. It should also be considerably less expensive than Extrudabody.

Believe it or not, but that dinky little stock turbo will push the car pretty damn quick out of a corner with some nice controllable power, when you raise the stock boost to about 14psi. Its just not so great for top end power like on the highway, where the compressor stonewalls around 4500-5000rpm. It would be pretty decent for track use where there's not a lot of straights. The engine I'm finishing up now (when it was first built by the previous guy) used to power a 280z around Limerock and Watkins Glen raceways at a pretty respectable clip, with nothing but that little stocker turbo. My current setup is involving just swapping a T04E compressor onto the stock turbine, which I expect will have some pretty fast spooling results. At least until I swap to a larger T3 turbine. .63AR housing stays.

It's good to be a sponge, its how you learn. I'd hardly consider myself to be an expert on these motors or the car, at least when compared to the older Z gurus on hybridZ and a local guy that's been tuning Datsun race motors since their inception. I spend hours listening and sifting through posts, probably with the same time frame and intensity as a South Korean playing Starcraft. There's always so much more to learn.

Thanks for the compliments. Its getting there... slowly. We'll see how she does when its all back together.

Here's a bonus, if you haven't already seen it.
http://www.geocities.jp/kuni_s30z/index.html
Yeah, its NA, but so what. It's an absolute monster.