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> Oddmanout84's Z build, Not your Devil Z
DOHC
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 02:47 PM
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Well didnt the Devil use to been a track car kiss.gif
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Zeether
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 03:47 PM
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btw, if you don't want to shell out $3000 on Watanabes Konig makes lookalikes called Rewind.
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 04:03 PM
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QUOTE (Zeether @ 15 minutes, 58 seconds ago)
btw, if you don't want to shell out $3000 on Watanabes Konig makes lookalikes called Rewind.

yeah, I've been surfing rinkya and yahoo jp for a good set of Watanabes for a while. I've looked at Konigs, but they're not wide enough for me. I've actually considered rota rbs recently, as much as I said I'd NEVER do, but at 17x9,17x9.5 staggered they actually fit the Z without the need for spacers or suspension modifications. Not only that, but my friend has a set of racing compound tires that would fit them, and he's willing to sell the set well below the $250 per tire they'd normally cost. I certainly don't want to be the first, but I've also never heard of any of these wheels breaking, even by some of the HBZ members who have tracked them.


If I can find some Wats for a similar price though, I'll be on that like stink on rice.
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Zeether
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 04:29 PM
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I wish there was a US company that distributed Watanabe rims, that would be convenient.
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peemyTNBow
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 04:40 PM
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RS Watanabe has a HQ in Torrance, CA.

Any wheel can break under hard track use. Depends on how many heat cycles you put through it.

Quality cast > Cheap cast.
Forged > Cast

For lightness, and strength.

Rotas have broken on the track before.

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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 07:36 PM
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QUOTE (BmwNeoType @ 2 hours, 56 minutes ago)
RS Watanabe has a HQ in Torrance, CA.

Any wheel can break under hard track use. Depends on how many heat cycles you put through it.

Quality cast > Cheap cast.
Forged > Cast

For lightness, and strength.

Rotas have broken on the track before.

Yes, they have broken before. But so far I have not heard of the RB models having any failures, yet.

Like I said, I'm doing my damnedest to find a good set of Wats (which I'm pretty sure are forged). But if I can't I've already got a set of wheels and awesome tires (which would actually cost more than the wheels themselves) lined up for a great price. Mid level, not incredibly cheap quality, but not the best. I think I read that a set of RBs in the dimensions I mentioned weighs about 45lbs, according to EMWHYRON on HBZ. He's very pleased with them, on and off the track.
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peemyTNBow
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 10:20 PM
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I believe strongly he is incorrect.

The 17 x 7.5 4 x 100 PCD Rota RB has been weighed in at around 18.20 lbs a wheel. Which turns out to 72.80 lbs for a set. Meaning the 9 and 9.5 RBs are going to weigh in at around 20 lbs a wheel.

Approximately 45 lbs a set means each wheel 11.25 lbs a wheel. Our SSR Type C-RS 17 x 7.5 weighs in at 14.6 lbs a wheel. Our Type C-RS is about 1 to 1/2 lbs lighter than a standard Rays Engineering TE37 (Depending on size and offset).

I know 5Zigen Forged FN01Rs and Buddy Club P1 forged wheels are pretty light too, somewhere in the same neighborhood as the SSRs.

Cliffs: Basically it has to be a forged, high quality single or multipiece wheel to weigh in at 11 lbs on that size otherwise i call BS. I don't believe in just throwing on wheels for looks. Wheels have to be lighter, wider and stronger than OEM.

RS Watanabes are cast wheels. However, the reason they are famous is because some of their wheels are Cast magnesium (extremely light). Which makes them very light, but you need to specifically order that. And, they are usually expensive. But, even regarding cast wheels, there is a difference between quality cast and shitty cast: Enkei MAT cast, Yokohama Advan series and Watanabe cast wheels are probably leagues ahead of the filipino and chinese casting process.

This post has been edited by BmwNeoType on Jun 7 2009, 10:27 PM
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StraightAwayZ
Posted: Jun 7 2009, 10:55 PM
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I too trust the Rbs and will be getting a set for my car- If you want some give me a PM, i know someone who has some filthy dirty prices on them and has stupid cheap shipping to boot.

The Rb is heavier than id like, but they hold the tire size i want, have the look i want, and fit the price i want. I simply dont have the money (or desire) to go spend 5x as much on rims for a performance gain i will hardly notice. And with their record, their durability is far from being a concern of mine.
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 10:53 AM
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My car has windshield washer squirters that work for the first time since I bought it! WOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
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Betrayal Jack Kn..
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 12:49 PM
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QUOTE (Oddmanout84 @ 1 hour, 56 minutes ago)
My car has windshield washer squirters that work for the first time since I bought it! WOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

Wonderful isn't it? laugh.gif

And moral of the wheel lesson: Don't buy cheap wheels
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peemyTNBow
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 04:30 PM
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Not don't buy cheap wheels.

Buy wheels that are light, strong, good quality, and are backed by companies that offer good dealer/customer service.

For example: I use the 360 Forged, HRE, and SSR examples. 360 Forged, HRE, and SSR all sell wheels that are anywhere from $2500 - $8000 dollars a set.

360 Forged died a painful death because the quality, weights, and customer service did not match their $1500 a wheel price tag. It was a shame. Their wheels were gorgeous in pictures. They were not that light, and the finishing sucked. They had a lot of potential customers, and the marketing ability to do well. They had more orders than they could handle, they accepted those orders without understanding the whole grand scheme of it. They 1/2 assed the wheels, the finishes, the sizing, the hardware, and the customer service.

HRE on the other hand, they had some finishing, structural problems with their wheels. Their image was ALMOST lost in most car communities when the rumor of HRE wheels being banned from Viper Club of america track events spread. But, HRE made a very strong effort to make most of their unsatisfied customers happy. The president of the company himself answered every question on the car forums, and tried to make things right. HRE's name was saved for the most part, and people still do business with them.

SSR at one point was distributed by Tire rack in the USA. They had a few bad batches of wheels. The old Type C (SSR Competition) at one point was said to be so light because there was a lack of enough wheel material. A few (not widespread), of the older SSR Competitions, GT3s, and GT2s developed cracks under heavy load. They learned from their mistake when they went bankrupt. When Tanabe Japan bought them, they redid all their tooling. They came out from that whole ordeal much stronger.

It turned out, the most $$$$$ of the wheel brands was the shittiest one. So, in the end, it's up to the customer to do his homework before buying wheels. If anyone is naive enough to believe that almost 2 x the rotational mass, and 1/2 the strength of a lightweight quality cast or full forged wheel will not affect their performance at some point, then they are just naive and usually learn the hard way later. A bit of information: The actual weight distribution of the wheel in the hub, spokes, barrel and face of the wheel makes a different on how the car handles on the street, and track too.

This post has been edited by BmwNeoType on Jun 8 2009, 04:36 PM
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 04:53 PM
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Well said.

I recently watched a video on the construction process of Rays. Truly dumbfounding, and amazing. But I'd rather have a down payment for a house...
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Betrayal Jack Kn..
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 06:09 PM
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QUOTE (Oddmanout84 @ 1 hour, 15 minutes ago)
Well said.

I recently watched a video on the construction process of Rays. Truly dumbfounding, and amazing. But I'd rather have a down payment for a house...

Same goes for me for a set of BBS rims biggrin.gif
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the passing
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 07:13 PM
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QUOTE (Zeether @ Yesterday, 3:47 PM)
btw, if you don't want to shell out $3000 on Watanabes Konig makes lookalikes called Rewind.

Watanabes costs that much?!

well, what wheel & tire size is most appropriate for a 240Z? + offset thats a great fit with fender flares on?

This post has been edited by the passing on Jun 8 2009, 07:17 PM
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 07:26 PM
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QUOTE (the passing @ 12 minutes, 53 seconds ago)
Watanabes costs that much?!

well, what wheel & tire size is most appropriate for a 240Z? + offset thats a great fit with fender flares on?

17x9 -13 offset, 17x9.5 -19 offset (staggered) rota RBs fit perfect and fill out the flares. 16x9 -13 offset, 16x9.5 -19 offset (staggered again) Watanabe R-types also fit the flares perfectly, but I hear they may rub the shock towers depending on the tires size you're running, and may need coilovers to overcome this and provide adequate clearance. For anything else there's spacers, and as a general rule S30s like wheels with 0 to negative offset.

And yes, Watanabes are at least $2500+ when you order a set, plus shipping and whatever options you want on top of that.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Jun 8 2009, 07:27 PM
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DOHC
Posted: Jun 8 2009, 11:03 PM
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With that type of money it could be better be used in that dream l28
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AK-Z
Posted: Jun 9 2009, 12:52 AM
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These are what I'll be rockin (if they are still around by the time my car is done tongue.gif)

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This post has been edited by AK-Z on Jun 9 2009, 12:52 AM
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MaikazeFD3S
Posted: Jun 9 2009, 06:59 AM
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QUOTE (Betrayal Jack Knife @ Yesterday, 10:09 PM)
Same goes for me for a set of BBS rims biggrin.gif

BBS FTMFW!!!

Never cheap out on a bad quality wheel. I have Rotas on my AW11, this is true, but I was also 14 years old at the time so a good set wasnt coming for a while! Now Im glad I didnt get expensive wheels because the car was stolen.
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 15 2009, 10:53 PM
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No really exciting updates. I found a pick n' pull junkyard (FINALLY) with a 280z. I took every thing I could carry off of it, and I'm not done. Biggest finds were the perfect turn signal/wiper switches, heater panel/brackets and the non-webbed non-EGR N42 intake manifold. Next trip I make I'm taking the tail lights.


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Like I said, nothing exciting...
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DOHC
Posted: Jun 15 2009, 11:30 PM
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looks like you have a bit cleaning to do
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MaikazeFD3S
Posted: Jun 16 2009, 04:31 AM
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A glass beading cabinet would be nice to have right now! I fell stupid, but is that a light or a button that says 'fuel'? What does it do if its a button? If its a light, Im assuming is a low gas indicator lamp.
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AK-Z
Posted: Jun 16 2009, 05:02 AM
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QUOTE (HateSkylines @ 31 minutes, 46 seconds ago)
A glass beading cabinet would be nice to have right now! I fell stupid, but is that a light or a button that says 'fuel'? What does it do if its a button? If its a light, Im assuming is a low gas indicator lamp.

Lol, don't feel stupid. Thats the low fuel warning light. Its "suppose" to light up, but usually it just sits there and mocks you tongue.gif.
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 16 2009, 07:55 AM
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QUOTE (AK-Z @ 2 hours, 52 minutes ago)
Lol, don't feel stupid. Thats the low fuel warning light. Its "suppose" to light up, but usually it just sits there and mocks you tongue.gif.

True story! The first time I broke down that sucker lit up just as my engine died!

The other "blank" slot opposite of the fuel level warning light is where the floor temp warning lamp goes (CA model). I swapped mine in.

And I now know someone with a bead blasting booth, so I'm in the money. cool.gif
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AK-Z
Posted: Jun 16 2009, 09:15 AM
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QUOTE (Oddmanout84 @ 1 hour, 20 minutes ago)
True story! The first time I broke down that sucker lit up just as my engine died!

The other "blank" slot opposite of the fuel level warning light is where the floor temp warning lamp goes (CA model). I swapped mine in.

And I now know someone with a bead blasting booth, so I'm in the money. cool.gif

lol, on mine, the other spot was for the defrost light, the other 280z didn't have it, even though it was from WA
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Oddmanout84
Posted: Jun 17 2009, 07:26 PM
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I like my defroster light. It turns a pretty blue color when I flip the switch (and nothing else).
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