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Psst, the points you made are the same as mine X turbo making 10 psi at 4k rpms will make the same power as y turbo at 4k rpms, the difference is that the more efficient x turbo can make 10 psi earlier, and/or later in the rpm range than y turbo. I was merely clearing up that there isnt a "high flow" 10 psi and a "low flow" 10 psi, theres merely psi at x rpms. Which ever turbo is better capable of producing consistant psi through a wider range of rpms is the superior one. This is why people should really consider pressure maps a little more closely when buying a turbo.

And thanks for the where, Funny ive looked there before for one but couldnt find one. Im also overly oblivious at times. Back to the Z store I go.

wouldn't larger intake ports/better head design be able to flow the same amount of air at a lower boost pressure? or am i just opening up a whole different bag o' chips?
what the air is being compressed into has to count for something, doesn't it?


This post has been edited by Moss on Mar 15 2010, 01:19 AM

Short and simple answer, yes. You can open the ports, lower the boost, and make the same power.

Just making sure we're on the same page.

Glad I could help with the clutch line. I'd really like to get the brake lines for the front too, but you can't get the fronts separate. It all comes as an expensive package of four. Also wanted their wheel spacers for the 4x4 conversion, but I dunno if they'd be willing to just sell me those.

Hell be willing to. Thats how I bought mine. Ive also got stainless lines and the 4x4 vented rotor set up with a 15/16ths master. All i got from ross was the spacer and some brake pads. Everything else i purchased separately.

Ross? That's Modern Motorsports. I got my stuff from Motorsport Auto (thezstore.com). I'm sure Ross would be willing to split up the order and just send the spacers, but I'm a bit wary about dealing with him. The stuff I get from him is good, but its expensive and I never know when I'll actually get it. That and since he never replies to emails sometimes I don't even know if he's gotten my order.

I was thinking of ordering my big brake upgrade from Silverminemotors.com, they seem to be quite a bit cheaper than the others and their kit includes everything. The only thing I don't care for is the slotted/drilled rotors they supply. I'd rather just have a smooth vented rotor.

I must've gotten lucky, i got mine immediately after i ordered them haha. Ask them if they supply just slotted or blanks- most companies ive dealt with in the past usually do even if they dont mention it since most customers actually want the riced up drilled out rotors.

New stuff. Fairlady emblem is on.



"New" hood. Got this for free from my friend, used to be on his Z before rust claimed the body. Hood is almost flawless, except it sat under a very large oak tree that frequently dropped acorns in it. There were a total of 84-90 dents I had to fix.



Spark plugs after ~3000miles, #2 is a lot cleaner. Still trying to figure out why. Ran fuel injector cleaner and seafoam through the vacuum lines to clean the engine. Oil change as well, now running Pennzoil 10-30w synthetic instead of 5-30w.



Old news, but after the initial incident of the excessive ka-lunk ka-lunk noises on initial startup, the engine runs fine. I also put header wrap on the downpipe, which I've been meaning to do for some time. Its not installed in the image. The transmission operates beautifully, and the new clutch/flywheel holds all the power with no signs of slipping. Despite being about half as light, its been no problem at all off the start. Less inertia has actually HELPED my hard starting problem.

Although, the Haltech still will not interface with my new computer @%$#^@$%@%$&@$!!! I need to call/email customer support... again...

5 points says your laptop is too new haha. So how many pounds of boost you running

This post has been edited by StraightAwayZ on Mar 18 2010, 05:27 PM

Lol, no. I got an old laptop from the same era the Haltech was made. In other words, the perfect thing to interface with it. Windows 95/98, serial port, everything. Something is wrong with the ECU or the versions of the Haltech software I have, none of the 5 versions I have will connect to the ECU.

About 10-13lbs off a stock 280zx turbo, which I have a mechanical boost controller plumbed into the stock internal wastegate to regulate pressure.

I need a new grill....

... However, all this cosmetic crap is probably going to take a back seat to the possible BHG that I may have. Still running tests for diagnosis, but it doesn't look good. Car running hot at idle, bubbles in the radiator when revved, slightly OILY bubbles sometimes... #2 spark plug mysteriously clean... The only thing that doesn't fit is the lack of white smoke. Still have not figured out what the "mystery noise" is but it could be exhaust gasses being forced into the coolant/oil lines.

Hard to see why I'd have a BHG. The car has not been pushed hard, I've used only premium fuel, and its always shown nearly full rich on the AFR while under load. Never heard a ping either...

Update:

Compression check:
1. 140 (145 w/ 30w)
2. 148
3. 149
4. 148
5. 148
6. 149
Looks good enough to me.

Tomorrow: burping the coolant again, this time with a better overflow tank installed. Then checking oil for water, coolant for oil.

What a pain in the dick. especially since the guy who built the engine "said" it had the 1mm Nismo HG. Well, the Nismo metal HG I'm looking at is .6mm. Do NOT want to change my compression ratio, especially since Haltech still has yet to respond about my tuning issue.

The saga continues, though it is one weird sounding situation. With the clutch taken care of just how much do you have left to accomplish?

It never ends. In terms of performance mods, the only thing holding me back is money and this untunable ECU. Fuel system needs an upgrade, a bigger turbo after that, more suspension mods, roof replace and roll cage install. The list goes on.


Just about 2 possibilities remain if I find oil/water mixture in my engine or rad tomorrow. These are worst possible scenarios.

A. Blown head gasket. Annoying extensive process which I don't want to do and don't want to shell out the expense.

B. Cracked cylinder head, which is actually a common problem in L series engines. Occurs between oil passages (to cam towers) and coolant jackets. When this happens, oil pressure forces oil into the coolant when the engine is warm and running. When the engine is shut off, the process reverses and coolant goes into the crank case.

I sure hope its the head gasket. Nothing would be nice too, but I really hope its the head gasket if anything's wrong. Cracked head = get new head. Well, not so bad since I have a spare P90 sitting on my workbench. Bad because I'm rebuilding it, and it needs machining and prep before I can install it. Last thing I wanted to do at the beginning of the driving season.

Well thats no good, cant say either option is great, though if it is just the head gasket then at least nothings broken.

If the ECU is at fault what would you do, just by a new Haltech or what?

Hopefully not. I finally got a reply from Haltech last night, they said there's no reason that it shouldn't be connecting... So they told me to take it to "my tuner" (lol, I am my tuner) and have them connect a special tuner laptop to it. I found a couple places within a hundred miles so I may try that soon. Option B is to send the ECU in to Haltech for recondition and repair. $175 AUD.


[ Post merged on Mar 30 2010, 06:06 PM ]
WOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!1!!! f**k YEAH

Haltech Online!!

Which is really, really odd... I was messing with the car's coolant system, installing a new aluminum overflow tank and trying to burp it. The car started a few times, sputtered and died. Could not get it to run again. It was as if at some point the system would cut the fuel off to half the cylinders and die. So pissed off I decided to hook up the laptop just to see if I could see what the hell was going on. Nope. Still just loaded halfway and reset, never connecting to the ECU. Now, I have 4 versions of the Haltech software, and none of them have worked. For some reason I tried loading v6.34 which is the one you get off the website (the first one I had, which the ECU said was outdated). Its never worked before.

Yet when it loaded up it instantly went to online mode. I could read everything in the ECU, all the maps etc. Awesome. It even gave a current readout of what the engine was doing (nothing). I could disconnect the MAP tube and blow in and get a positive reading. GREAT! Then I saw the coolant and IAT sensors. -40*F, FAULT. Wtf... disconnected both, wiggled the wires, nothing. So maybe that's my problem, but it seems very odd that both would suddenly shit on me, for no apparent reason, at the same time... With luck, that's the problem and they won't be too hard to get. Still can't get a reading out of my O2 sensor which is annoying.

Annual rust harvest.


And taking things apart...



This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Apr 6 2010, 09:48 PM

Gotta love the northern states

Good to see you can read the ecu now, will you check the sensors first just to make sure the ecu isnt at fault, or just say f*ck it and get new sensors?

Said f**k it and got new sensors. The inlet air temp sensor is like a MAF, it breaks if you look at it funny. My current one was old, and looked oil fouled. I'm regretting not ordering more than one. The coolant temp sensor being dead turned out to be a failed butt connector hidden in the harness. Pissed, since I still bought one. But its nice to have a spare.

No wonder your fans never kicked on, hah. Wow- that over heating could also explain a BHG. Warped head maybe? Dun dun dun.

Dont worry, changing the headgasket is cake on these motors. Set the motor to TDC, mark the timing chain/gear together so you know where the were, and do something to keep that chain up and that chain tension in place. If you dont, well then youre boned and thats when you pull off the oil pump, and the drive, and the accessories, and the pulleys, and the timing cover...

Not that simple.

There are THREE coolant temp sensors in my car, all on their own independent systems.

One in the radiator: This trips the fan relay at 180*F.

Two in the thermostat housing: One sends a signal through a single wire to the temperature gauge in the dash. The other sensor is two wire and is connected to the Haltech ECU, and relays info to the ECU in order to control mixture.

None of these sensors are in any way linked with the other systems, and as such send no signals to, and have no effect on the other systems. I.E. The gauge sensor will not tell the ECU what the temp is, The radiator probe will not send a signal to the gauge, and the Haltech coolant sensor will not tell the fan to turn on and off.

The Haltech sensor was the one that failed, and has nothing to do with the overheating. It just made the car harder to start when cold because the ECU was unable to adjust coolant maps.

Don't worry, I know the steps to removing the head on the motor. I practiced on my spare one, following the steps in my book. However, I don't think I have a warped/cracked head or a BHG anymore. I won't completely dismiss it as a possibility, but there's no water in my oil. Still want to do a leakdown test though. If it turns up bad I will be taking the head off and replacing the gasket. I'll also slap in some ARP studs for good measure.

It IS possible that there could be a crack to a coolant passage from a combustion chamber or maybe an exhaust runner which would pressurize the coolant system... but... This would not just manifest at idle. My overheating problems ONLY happen at idle. When the car is moving, the temp gauge stays nicely in the middle. Even though I don't fully trust its accuracy, I fully trust the fact that it shows a steady even reading when moving. This reading only changes when airflow suddenly stops. If there were a crack to the coolant system inside the combustion chamber though, there would still be water in the oil from leakage after shutdown.

If anything has failed, it is the fan relay. I replaced it the other day with my spare that is rated at 180*F.

The OTHER sensor that failed was my inlet air temp sensor. At first I believed it was the sensor, since tests with the multimeter on the wire showed full conductivity. However, I didn't realize until yesterday that the wires inside the connector are very much mobile. The electrical connectors inside can slide in and out a few millimeters, and that is just what they did. While the multimeter probes could reach them, the temp sensor pins could not, and probably had a gap of about 2mm between its pins and the plug receptor.

So basically I've had a perfect storm of shit in the past several weeks.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Apr 8 2010, 05:20 AM

New goodies installed:






And now my fuel pump is dead... f**k me. I was supposed to make the UCONN car show this Saturday and pulled an all nighter to get the car ready. Then my fuel pump decides its a good time to shit the bed. 0 psi reading on the fuel press gauge in the engine bay, doesn't change when I squeeze the lines. Fuel pump making a loud buzzing sound. My bet is that its cavitated or my fuel tank is rotting inside and dislodged a large piece of debris. So now its time to completely tear apart the fuel system, once i get money...

Hey what shift knob/boot are you rocking? Id like to emulate those into my z. Right now im rocking bare thread and a mechanics rag as a shift boot (literally). On the upside, finally swapped over to a 83 5 speed. yum yum gearing.

Its actually the same weighted knob that came with the MSA short shifter. The boot is also from MSA, but its a universal genuine leather one, not the stock replacement with strings. I kinda think its too plain... I liked my old one, but the threads on the short throw are too wide. It definitely is better than red rags on bare thread, though.


[ Post merged on Apr 11 2010, 12:59 PM ]
So I turned on my ignition today just to see what was going on a little more in depth. The results were... interesting. To my amazement, the fuel pressure went up on the gauge to 25psi! But then I started hearing a sound other than the fuel pump whirring. A buzzing sound. Turns out it was coming from my fuel pressure regulator. I turned the key off and went to inspect. There was fuel leaking out from my engine bay fuel filter at the fittings under the hoses. I tightened them, turned the ignition on again and watched everything. Still whining, sounding like there was air going through the system. Turned off, then checked the pressure regulator. All I had to do was lightly squeeze the inlet line and fuel sprayed out.

This system is done. All lines were properly secured, and the EFI-safe rubber lines were used when I installed it. I don't know if my OEM fuel filter has an overpressure bypass, but I'm thinking it was clogged yesterday and me fiddling with the key this afternoon was just enough to build pressure to clear the obstruction... or blow the filter inside. I'm willing to bet there's rust and particulate matter surging through the fuel and f**king everything up. And the fuel system is one thing I'm not going to try to f**k around with by adding bandaids. If I'm overpressurizing enough to blow EFI lines there's something seriously wrong, most likely a rusty tank. It seems pretty damn silly for me to just replace the pump or the FPR, or even slap on a new filter. It also seems backwards to spend X$$$$$$ to buy a stock NOS tank. So I think I'm going AN. If things go my way it looks like my tax return is going to go towards a fuel cell, Aeromotive A1000/Bosch 044, some sort of rising rate FPR, 100 micron mesh filters and AN lines to connect them all.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Apr 11 2010, 12:40 PM

which mirrors are those and where do they hail from?