Close Topic Options

It never ends, have you ever had a good look inside of the tank?

My fender mirrors? They're from a Nissan Bluebird/510. Same as the original JDM Fairlady mirrors, only they came in bare stainless. I had to paint them black.


[ Post merged on Apr 11 2010, 05:57 PM ]

Last year while I was doing the bodywork and getting ready to paint I had the tank out. I took a peek and it looked decently clean. Apparently not anymore.
Edit: Could have something to do with the fact that the OEM carbon canister was removed when I did my engine swap, so the fuel tank vent line goes straight to the atmosphere. Or, it could be bad gas. Or it could be that I just didn't see a rust patch. Regardless, crap in the fuel is probably a 99% possibility of what's going on. I initially thought it was the fuel pump, but then I got pressure back this afternoon, and it was making the same sound. That's when the hoses around the filter and press regulator started leaking. All sounds like the symptoms of dislodged debris. Add to that the light ka-lack-ka-lack sound my motor was making a while ago could have been a dead cylinder? As in, one injector being clogged and not spraying/spraying too little. Could be why my #2 spark plug was so clean. But that's pure speculation. I won't know until the engine is running again.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Apr 11 2010, 06:13 PM

Well, seems like last year when I looked in the tank I didn't have the right angle. Rust spots, several of them, on the bottom of the tank. Taking it to a radiator shop (if I can find one around here) and seeing if its salvageable. I dunno, especially about the coatings. Supply and return lines fly all over the place inside there, and the pickup is obscured by a cylindrical baffle. I'm worried that any sort of in-tank coating would clog them. Also looking to see if I can get AN fittings welded on the bungs. If all else fails, its fuel cell time.

I second the notion of a fuel cell.

Took the plunge. Well, half of it. Have to wait until next month before I fully convert the fuel system to AN. Right now its a bit beyond the budget once priced out with all the fittings and SS braided hose. Going to see how long this stock gas tank will last as well before I get the fuel cell. I remembered I had a POR-15 tank lining kit so I blasted it out and sealed it. Hopefully it lasts, but I'm running a few filters just in case anything happens.

So, the damage so far is one A1000 pump and A1000-6 RRFPR, two steel mesh filters (100 and 40 micron), and all the associated fittings to plumb them into the system which basically consists of barb and pipe thread adapters. It should hold just fine for now. The A1000 is a bit overboard, but should offer a decent amount of future buildability... and excess noise. I'll just have to mount it really well with rubber isolators.

Also working out a deal with someone for a better fuel rail (11mm o ring instead of barb injector) with 440cc supra injectors, but its not set in stone yet.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Apr 18 2010, 09:12 PM

Good choice. We use aeromotive on our Vipers a lot.

woohooo 10pts for big ass fuel pump

I honestly thought when I ordered it that it would be closer to stock size and not this freakin' huge. Main reason I got it though was for the reliability and the -10 AN fittings on each end which should lend well to the rest of the fuel system setup when its done. Heard nothing but bad things about Walbros, MSD and Bosch 044s (bosch being the most reliable out of that bunch, but the accounts of failure I read were scary), and heard nothing bad about the Aeromotive besides excessive operational noise. I'll have to figure out a good mounting setup with isolaters, and will probably end up getting the Aeromotive fuel pump speed control to keep it quiet unless the car is going up in the RPM range.

The only thing that annoys me is that this pump is SO CLOSE to being able to mount to the stock FP brackets, but the holes are just slightly offset enough so it won't fit.




The FPR is already attached to my rail and it ran great this weekend while I drove down to an awesome JDM cars and food meet at my buddies house. Provided good fuel pressure the whole way, and it was sweet to be able to adjust it. Also pictured are a set of 6 460cc Rx7 injectors that I got for $100. They're waiting for the new o-ring style fuel rail. The Z will have to be tuned shortly after since they push almost twice the fuel as the ones currently on my engine.

I don't have much to add except that you have an awesome build going on and i love the evolution of your car. the brarackburdo story cracked me up.

Burning oil cause a valve cover bolt failed at the threads, consuming coolant, clunking sound getting worse and persisting through hot and cold engine temps. Today is a wonderful day.

Is it what I think it is?

Dunno. We'll find out. Might be pulling the head tonight.

Best case scenario I replace the headgasket and head bolts with ARP studs. Yes, best case. Besides nothing, but I know better than to assume that first off instead of the worst possible.

Update: Not ABSOLUTELY positive, but I believe I found the source of the excessive ka-lunking noise that I had been hearing. The timing chain has worn through the anti-friction material on the left (downward running) side of the engine all the way to the metal. One of the guys at this weekend's meet remarked how it sounded like timing chain noise, he's probably right. Regardless, I need a new timing chain guide which will probably result in buying a whole damn new timing kit. The price isn't the worst of it, the fact that I have to figure out how to replace it without removing the whole engine is the challenge.

Plugs pulled, #2 is cleaner as usual, damn it. #6 is the dirtiest, but looks like rich AFR deposits rather than oil, which is to be expected since I have the engine running much richer under boost to compensate since I don't have meth or anything.


[ Post merged on Apr 26 2010, 07:25 PM ]
Begin head removal.






Its hard to see from the picture, but the timing chain guide is worn through the friction material to the metal.

This post has been edited by Oddmanout84 on Apr 26 2010, 01:39 PM

It seems daunting but its not that bad. Hardest part may be removing the crank pulley. When I redid mine i removed EVERYTHING in the way. All the accessories, the pulleys, and even the radiator. Took me a few hours to pull it apart and a few hours to put it back together. Shmeasy peasy.

Its just a pain, that's why I'm unhappy about it. There's things I'd rather spend money on than a timing chain set and head gasket for a motor which only has 5000 miles on it. The guides should not be going that quick. I'm removing all the accessories, intake, exhaust, everything and the rad is coming out because it could use a drain and flush anyway. I'll probably end up getting a harmonic damper to replace the crank pulley too while I'm at it.


[ Post merged on Apr 28 2010, 03:59 AM ]

Take that hanz woodruff key!

Yeah... metal to metal is never a good thing. The key hole on the crank snout was widened in the process. All cause my pulley bolt decided to back off 5mm.

Those dampners aint cheap! Now thats what im talking about. Seeeeee, it wasnt so bad

$200 for the SFI spec damper was still a lot, even when compared to the $600 ATI damper.

Yes, it is bad. The whole crank is coming out, as well as the pistons and rods. Crank needs to be magnaflux inspected, but I might as well just throw in one of my spare cranks that are good. Damn near full rebuild and reboring of the block coming up depending on what I find. And that may mean new pistons too.

The one man engine pulling party was a success. Very easy, surprisingly.






Couple of the cylinder bores are particularly nasty. It looks like some water got into the chambers while the engine sat in my buddies garage for 4 years and pooled around the oil rings and compression rings. Couldn't be seen until I pulled the head the other week. So the block is going over to the local machine shop for a .020 overbore at the same time the crank gets inspected. Yes, already have matching pistons in my possession, although not right now actually. Just sent them out.

Well that sucks, but it happens, anything else going to happen with the engine while it's striped apart? What pistons are they anyway?

This post has been edited by Betrayal Jack Knife on May 25 2010, 04:28 AM

Sneaky bastard

They came and then...