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3 years now and still havent seen a failure of any of my walbros or my friends walbro, or customer walbros. the key here is to buy a REAL walbro not a china copy. Also china is now making 044 copies as well so you need to be careful.

I've also seen way more failed aeromotive a1000 pumps then I've seen failed walbro pumps. But either way both pumps will more then do the job for what you need.

just get a weldon and be done with it lol.

I plan on running a Bosch 040 in tank for now.

I ran a Walbro 255 in the GLHS, 2yrs w/ no issues at all. I paid $113 shipped for it off Ebay.

Yep, but if I ever had issues with mine...I will not hesitate to change.

well lets think about this... if I was building a balls to the wall race car that is going to be making 1000 hp I would choose the highest flowing pump which would be an 044 which flow 300LPH. that doesn't mean that I dislike the gsl-392 it just means that I don't think It would be up to the task of putting out enough fuel for my 1000hp rb31. but on the other hand it would be a prefect pump for someone trying make say 400 rwhp on a supra because they are never going to need 300LPH of fuel.


Alittle bit of trivia
Guess which fuel pump the viper Hennessy 1000 runs?

A. Bosch 044
B. Walbro Gsl-392
C. Aeromotive A1000

I'll give you a hint, Its prone to failure and we replace it with dual Gsl-392's


This post has been edited by sidewaysstarion on Dec 27 2009, 11:34 AM

i dont know many people that run the A1000. I know someone that runs twin Aeromotive Tsunamis in Tank.

If you run a Bosch pump its best to find a Made In Germany pump. The same guy that runs the Twin Tsunamis had two 044 fail on him within two weeks. Most of the 044's, 040's, and 023's are made in Czech now. Quality control may have gone down. Im on the hunt for a German 040.

Moss says: So the only thing that should be different is the ECU and fuel pump?

I'd also like to point out Walbro makes OEM pumps for ALOT cars hell the viper comes from the factory with a Walbro.


Also the answer to my trivia was C.

My GLHS had a Walbro 190 from the factory

I find Walbro 255's to be ok under 450hp. I dont know what they max out at.

eventually more than 300rwkw / 402rwhp


[ Post merged on Dec 29 2009, 03:00 AM ]
thanks for all the comments guys, looks like i'll need to think/read more.

for progress, i've taken the rear seats out.

yeah...
not much else



the 3 plugs in the middle of the pic going to the transmission are still stuck together preventing progress and giving me an excuse to look at fancy tools and parts at local parts shops.

SPOILER

Nice one Moss, should be a blast once it's done. xD

If you run the 2JZ just use the stock ECU for it. No need to complicate crap if you don't need to, otherwise just get a whole aftermarket ECU like Microtech or Autronic if you want to go that route, I wouldn't bother with those interceptor like devices.

Otherwise I'm pretty sure 1JZ is a much easier/cheaper option?

Let me know if you need any advice/help.

no love for N/A

it's a 2jz-GE i'm putting in, the after market ecu is for when i get a turbo kit or some funky jazz for it. it's my understanding that the stock ecu won't be happy about boost.


i'd put a 1jz in it in a heartbeat, but while i'm on my p's it's slightly less illegal to just have a different engine in it that doesn't have turbo.


only trouble i'm having is the damn transmission wiring plugs, they just won't unplug!
i'm thinking of just disconnecting them directly from the transmission, but there's alot of spiderwebs under my car and i'm not to fond of finding out what type of spider's live in the hunter valley.

LOL sorry man I didn't even consider for 1 sec you were going to put N/A in there. In that case, yeah you will have to upgrade your ecu along with the fuel system later.

You mean those electrical plugs?? Can you get a diff angle photo or close up??

This post has been edited by spl on Jan 4 2010, 03:22 AM

yep, the three plugs in the middle of the picture, i don't have any close up pics but thanks to the magic of hi-res pics;



all you have to do on the rounds ones is lift the clip and pull, i lift the clip, there's nothing visible stopping it coming out, yet it doesn't budge <<

and the other one that looks like 6 cylinders together is just as deceptive.

hmm not too sure - are there any clips that can be removed entirely as in seperated from the plug itself? Otherwise there may be another way to tackle it entirely.

Try to look around a bit harder otherwise have a look in one of those Haynes service manual things at Repco etc - Also posting on toymods or supraforums (US site is huge and alot of MA70 people there) would probably be a good idea.

If you can find the proper Toyota service manual for your car (which you probably can since I have S13/S14 one and supras are very popular too) that will tell you for sure how to take off every single nut, bolt and plug. lol.

happy bday to me






here are some better pics of the plugs



there's another round type plug going to a resistor elsewhere on the car that's the same and i managed to unplug it by pulling on it like a mofo, but the lack of room makes that impossible to do, so instead i got some more stands and jacked up the back as well, so now i'm going to just undo them from the transmission. i saw a dead redback under the car, so i'm hoping that what killed it has killed any others ><

did you try lifting the tab before trying to pull them apart?

yes.

on the other one i got unpluged there's an o-ring sealing it, so that explains a few things.


where the plugs are though i can't get a good enough grip so i'm going to take them of the trans instead


[ Post merged on Jan 8 2010, 05:16 PM ]
then it should be smooth sailing

my old radiator is fairly beat up so i figured i should get a new one.
however, i'm not sure if i should get one made for the ma70 with a 7M or one that's made for the 2jz but in an A80 body.


one will fit to the engine and the other to the car.

or they both will fit in all good....

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

yay

damn i took a while to get this far.


double yay


wow it needs service



i got some premade mounts for 7m to jz but they don't look right


top is the right side, bottom is left side

right side of engine


left side of engine


the line is from the rear face to the closest part of the mount, the mount is further forward on the left side of the engine but the conversion mounts are the other way 'round it seems.

unfortunately i cut my hand open 2 days ago so i couldn't do anything other than moving stuff around

Stop beer bottle tricking. You're going to regret it the day your hand won't close up properly XD