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i always TA in IB, OB only once using my friend's evo 9

Lol.. It's insane in C1 as well.. Fast accel.. GOD handling.. Hard to reach top speed =_=;.. resulting 2'51'9xx C1 OB, still slow tho.. But yeah.. haven't been able to try hakone with GC8, since I always fuked my CPs before I finished the run, lol..

today TA in IB & got 2.33.xxx, improved from 2.35.xxx

got 2'30'192 with my friend's Z31. trying to get used to its's sluggish acceleration and super grippyness.

MR2 is staying at 3'28'993
S15 is at 2'30'364
S30 is at 2'29'007

My last run on Hakone-I was 2'34"031 with my GDB-F.

Before I launch into this weird theory I got, note the cars in my sig and keep in mind that I drive Auto on Hakone; AT and footwork are what this is based upon. And if it helps any (for the record), my GDB-F (and maybe my RX-8) handle the turn-heavy courses better than my other cars - the current set-ups for all my cars give 'pretty much' "equal" performance.

Now, this weird theory I got theorizes that a car's turning performance, basically clearing the turn is directly relative to its length. The longer a car is, it'll clear the turn pointing the right way, but have a higher chance of broadsiding the wall at higher speed; my R2 will clear the turn with oversteer, leading to a fishtail to re-orient.

This theory has led to me using my GDB-F for turn-heavy courses like Osaka/C1-NBL/Hakone/Tokyo and my Evo9 for Wangan/Yokohane/Kanagawa. And despite what some have said, physics/science actually applies in some cases in MT; the question is how far does it apply?

This post has been edited by raven111 on May 24 2008, 05:40 AM

I dont understand how you can say a longer car will broadside a wall, then use an R2 for an example...
i'm probably missing out on something here..

but yes, there are *some* physics at work.

wheelbase, car width, etc.. all make a difference

In theory, longer wheelbase gives more grip - automatically meaning the R2 has the least grip out of a turn (and subsequently super slides) in part due to light weight. Where grip is concerned on Hakone with my cars, my GDB-F's a balance between my Evo9 and my R2 in wheelbase. I'm trying to order this, but the bottom line is: "R2 oversteers, Evo9 understeers, and GDB-F's just right". Also, it's usually the one I have the least painful runs with since the above would ("theoretically") give me a little room for error and correction w/o losing much ground.
--
BTW, someone said I had my GDB-F configured for rallying (Set B, GT2 wing, DC bonnet). Out of curiosity, I looked it up Rallying @ Wikipedia, then went to down to Rallying Techniques @ Wikipedia, which hopefully I'm reading correctly from. Please correct me if otherwise.

• Scandinavian flick: Applicable only to Hakone-O on a left turn after a rapid right-left-right.
• Left-foot-braking: Hakone Inbound @ red left turn 1km from the finish line.
• Hill jumping: Mostly useful on Metro courses, but can be done on Hakone-O close to finish line despite no tactical application; minor application in early Hakone-O to clear early dip.

This post has been edited by raven111 on Jul 30 2008, 05:38 AM

Theoretically, the shorter wheelbase will give it a smaller turning circle as well. Not to mention, its lighter weight means it wont slide quite as much, as the momentum shift isn't quite as obvious.

Its all very technical, as are those techniques, personally tho, I wont apply those to wangan... its a game, after all, and the physics don't exactly match RL ones. Its got SOME similarity to RL, but some other things dont necessary work either.

can any1 plz help me solve my dilemna....i can like play hakone with my r32 but not my evo8....HELP!!!!

i really hate hakone.. for those who love it.. i salute you guys.. hahaha!!

This post has been edited by kei1621 on May 25 2008, 02:40 AM

then don't play with your E8, play with your R32

LOL

correct! hehehe!! both cars are good though..

Thanks for the help, Dare. I know it's a game and all, but I'm just hoping however much applicable stuff can help my times/turns/etc. - y'know what I mean.

@FAME*: what transmission & HP are you using? If you're using Auto, I could give a few pointers; if you're using Manual, you'll need to ask the other guys.
--@xeoreg: Nice one, but I don't think that EXACTLY helps our fellow player!

BTW, I'm kinda curious as to how many folks can Auto Hakone really well? I feel like a sore thumb.

This post has been edited by raven111 on May 25 2008, 02:58 AM

I feel you, same problem over here :X

I think most people use MT here...

True, but just a general question since everyone's mentioned it's hard to Auto Hakone. In such case that they've tried, it helps to know what HP they were using.

why would it be hard, i think itd be easier not having too shift
just use 760 or 740 .. theres not really much of a difference

It's not like you shift alot on Hakone either. I can only think of 3 spot for inbound and 4 for outbound.

rofl there is alot more than that for ib .. i can think of 7 off the top of my head

wow, i only shift like 4 times on hakone ib

wha!! i shift like 12+ times
i need to practise hakone more

only 12?

goddamn i suck....

i run hakone really low cos im not confident enough cos of all the sliding of the z33.. 720 for me.

The only time I did Hakone-O on Manual (by accident, really), I ended up shifting a lot. It might've up toward 20 times. But what folks doing Auto might have trouble with is footwork. In the meantime, I'm trying to get a friend of mine to vid my Hakone runs; also de-mothballing my Z33 from his place - might have to take the Z a little lower, maybe 720, since the weight throws it a bit at 740.

Out of the cars listed in my sig that I seriously use (highlighted in yellow), I can only use the RX-8 & WRX for Hakone/Osaka; something about it, maybe that one theory I propped up, keeps me from effectively using my Evo9 - and my Legacy and Z33 are really ineffective for differing reasons of weight.

This post has been edited by raven111 on May 26 2008, 02:56 AM

haha i can try and do a hakone video with auto for fun hahahhaa

I'd like to see that.

Also, for learning shifting/footwork, I suggest paying some attention to the smallest dial in the HUD during someone's Hakone vid (I think it's the Boost Guage). I noticed it's constant when you're gassing, drops when you stop, and goes nuts when you pump.

This post has been edited by raven111 on May 26 2008, 03:03 AM